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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.